"Our heritage and ideals, our code and standards - the things we live by and teach our children - are preserved or diminished by how freely we exchange ideas and feelings."
- Walt Disney
Heritage! An asset given in goodwill to the new generation, new age, to take the helm of something so magnificent, that it is a legacy of its own, more like a bow fired into a void which will be ever flying if its provided the right amount of selflessness.
Travelling back to 1414, I found myself in the rule of Sultan Ahmed Shah of Ahmedabad, A Mughal crown basking beside the river banks of Sabarmati, The story of Sultan Ahmed Shah and his city of Ahmedabad shining bright under the Mughal moon after suppressing a rebel by his own uncle and other minister's of his court.
Sultan Ahmed Shah is an important ruler in the history of Ahmedabad and successor to Ahmad Khan and grandson of Sultan Muzaffar Shah - who founded the Muzzafarid Dynasty. His reign lasted from 1411 to 1442 which built the very foundation of today's modern Ahmedabad - A UNESCO World Heritage City.
The city is a treasure trove in itself, with jewel studded relic's, monuments, stories, folk lore's of its time, it never fails to amuse me, even till this day. There is always to see something and even more to miss out every time you are out exploring the city. To get you interested - there is a memorial for a sparrow- which apparently died in a cross fire of police during Roti Riots - Navnirman Andolan of March 2, 1974, known as Chakli Smarak and even Chakli Kimbli in Dhalni Pol of the city. Interesting right?
600 Year Bazar
Soon after taking over the helm of Ahmedabad, Sultan Ahmed Shah started with building the gates and walls of the city, along the same lines in 1414, Sultan started the 'Khaas Bazar', Now known as the Ravivar Bazar - A Sunday Market in modern times. Initially it was setup in tents on Friday's and adopted the name Shukravari Bazar for the same reason.
The Bazar in itself had a triumph with communal riots of 1914 and 2002 - it found itself stopping and starting in the dates of history and shifted it's location's accordingly from Siddi Saiyed Mosque to Old Session Court of Ahmedabad and since then now at the city's iconic Riverfront, after then Chief Minister of the State of Gujarat - Shri Narendra Modi inaugurated it to public on Feb 3, 2014.
The market dawn's on people when they make their way to it from the city's other Iconic Ellis Bridge, a landmark itself, the market's hustle and bustle thaw's over one's visual sensation on the approach afar. A majestic yawn of 32,000 square feet, the market spread's it arms from 1414 to today's modern times, as a hug to all the residents, traders, buyers and tourist's.
Market is maintained by Ahmed Shah Gujri Association and gives membership to more than 1600 traders, from which 400 are female's. Another interesting fact behind this market is, members of the association pay a rent of Rs 3/- and Non Member's pay a rent of Rs 6/- to the association and in return the association pay's rent to the municipal body of Rs 302/- against the land they use on every Sunday. This has since not changed to promote the flee market and maintain it's heritage value.
Much interestingly with such low rent's and almost a foot fall of 5000 people on a single day (I doubt its even more), the area is spanking clean, much cleaner then the modernized area's of the city I have visited. Traders and vistor's here must consider this place as their temple of work or even a home to achieve this fleet with such a large foot fall.
Considering this amount of business and footfall, there are said to be approximate of 7000 to 10,000 trader's who get business directly and indirectly from this weekly market, and to control the footfall and it's related vehicular traffic - there is a giant 16,500 vehicle capacity parking area which can accommodate both 2 wheelers and 4 wheeler's at a mere cost of Rs 20/- for whole day. Initially the whole plot, where the current market bustle's was a shanty town for years before, home to nearly 20,000 people, it was decided to redevelop the whole river bed which cuts through the city and beautify it to the likes of other river side cities of the world such as Paris on Seine, Prague on Vltava, Venice on it Canals and similarly Ahmedabad on Sabarmati.
In earlier times, before the city had its complete makeover there was a local saying that I personally grew up listening, people use to swear on the river water's flow, for example once I remember my friends back in school we all were talking, one of them was so scared of passing the math exam that day he said that "If I pass the math exam it would be the day our city would have water passing through Sabarmati river. "meaning the water was never going to pass through the city nor my friend was ever going to pass the exam, eventually the exam got cleared but latter was remaining until now. The river now flows clean, lush, rustling through the city 24*7 with joy and greenery all around. Do make it point to visit the whole belt of the newly developed city's riverfront, specially in the morning and once sun starts to set. It's one of the other must do while in Ahmedabad.
Goddess Of Wealth At The Gates
Soon after Sultan Ahmed Shah took over the family coup and foiled it, he ordered to built the gates that marked the entry and exit point into his city. As usual, seen across all mughal king's and their kingdom's, these gate's were high walled, majestic, hand carved - history etched into the very stones and foundation such that not an inch of these gate's are boring. You will stare in amazement. The design's in each window is different from other.
There are 21 historically documented gates of the city. All a master piece but due to the expansion of the population and accommodating ever growing traffic, few walls and perimeters of the gate's had to be collapsed to let the modern horses and carriages with diesel and petrol engines flow into and out from the already congested, noisy old city.
There is an unconfirmed yet widely used folk lore that run's parallel to the collapsing of the old city walls, it is widely believed by the old and original residents of the city that when it was announced that some part of the perimeter walls will be collapsed to accommodate the new bridges that would link the two parts of the city beautifully divided by the river, it would bring bad omen to whole city, there was a long discussion that followed to its decision (I too faintly remember of the same), but once the walls were gently brought down. later the city had suffered an severe earthquake. The epicenter was in Bhuj ironically on 26th of January 2001 but massive destruction was there across the effected cities and even in Ahmedabad. The original story was that the Manek Burj should not be destroyed that connects both part of city by the iconic Ellis Bridge that doesn't rust and till date both the Burj and Bridge remains intact and a world UNESCO Heritage site.
Moving forward, The gates where Goddess of Wealth - Laxmi, still stands waiting for the sultan to give her a visit. Interesting?, The folk lore goes, one fine day Goddess Laxmi came to meet the Sultan, she was paused in her path by the guards at the gate and asked the purpose to which a willingness to meet the sultan was expressed by the goddess, overwhelmed the guard ran to Sultan expressing that the Goddess of Wealth is at the gates, Sultan upon hearing this and probably known to the religious presence of the goddess and her blessing, immediately drew out his sword and beheaded the guard - in the attempt to not let goddess know that sultan will ever come or not and till date sultan has never gone to greet the goddess at the gates, in fear that she will leave and he and his city will not get a chance to prosper in a divine intervention, this story still lives in hearts of all citizen's of Ahmedabad, specially in the trader's and businessman who operate near those gates. The gates are called Teen Darwaza - The Three gates.
The Goddess Laxmi still stand's waiting for the sultan and showering blessing on the city for immense prosperity and wealth and I believe somewhat it is true because once you get a chance to visit this place there are 2 prominent point's here the enigmatic temple of Bhadra Kali Devi - Goddess of the city and near the Burj - India's 2nd Largest 9 foot tall idol of Goddess Laxmi in the Mahalaxmi Temple, blessing the city since.
The most beautiful part of this story is a light, that has been running since it's inception by devotion towards Goddess Laxmi and has been burning bright and upkept through rains, winds, storm, holidays and history by the Muslim's in the area. Such a beautiful place to view, a joy you would only feel when personally here.
The Diya - light, still burn's bright in a lower corner of the central gate of the three gates, towards the inside of the city.
This whole area from Bhadra Kali Temple Up to Gandhi Road is laden with history amalgamated with modern chaos and hustle. On one hand the relic's of Mughal time quietly stand and stare while on the other hand hawker's, trader, visitor's, worshippers pass by each other in a perfect chaotic sync. The Three gate's is very interesting as the shoulder gates are smaller and narrower in size and length compared to the center gate which is tall, broad and deeper within - which is made purposefully that way to accommodate elephants and the behemoth convoy's that followed during meetings and Sultan's celebration or battle cry departure's.
The place where currently small businesses and hawker's thrive was initially a ground level terrace, a huge empty plot - parking spaces of those era's to act as stables for the horses and camp's for the gold and brass studded elephants and throne's on it. That's the reason, if you stand in center of this terrace you will see its a gigantic empty plot, temporary camp ground for even the soldier's that must have travelled with these majestic animal's along with their supplies.
Another interesting thing to surely see without fail is the Farmaan, Open letter written and inscribed on stone in a 8th century ancient language of Dev Nagri, Which was issued by the Maratha Empire's Governor Chimanji Raghunath in the year of 1812, post death of Sultan Ahmed Shah in 1442, 370 years later, stating rights for women's in their families ancestral properties, the Farmaan was issued to both Hindu's and Muslims, the Farmaan translates as:
"Let the daughter get her due share of fathers property without any hitch. So is Lord Vishwanath's command. If you defy, the Hindu will have to answer Mahadev and the Mussalman will have to explain to Allah or Rasool"
The whole time here, in the city is always joyous, fun, lot of heat, chaotic while simultaneously a prefect blend of history, religion, love and an aroma in the air of by gone times that still echoes' silently.
The only thing I personally felt was such historical significant monuments need better protection then it already is, it needs to be well preserved and away from regular human touch and vehicular passing through out the city and its monument's as these are non renewable, one cannot regain it original form once it is damaged - if so it would need more like Japanese Kintsugi process but that level of dedication, ikigai and patience come's at a cost far more in modern times to this priceless relic's of time and history.
With this, I hope you come visit the Unesco World Heritage City of Ahmedabad. If you are a foreigner it would definitely be a cultural shock but worth it if you choose to spend time correctly here with the right eye.
Sharing few picture's that I clicked during my visit back in time below.
Until next one, Que Sera,Sera!
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Click here for the complete detail Vlog on Youtube: 600 Year Market
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(Afar - The Teen Darwaza & Market)
(The Window's of Teen Darwaza)
(Abrupt Chance Meeting with a local guest from Rajasthan)
(The Farmaan By Maratha Governor)
(A Local Female Trader Selling Custom made Hand Carts - 'Lahri's')
(Happy Meetings - A Trader Enjoying Breakfast - Idli & Sambhar in Bazar)
(The Divine Calling - Lady giving service of flowers at Laxmi Temple, Ellis bridge)
(All images are of my own and resharing or reusage is strictly prohibited without prior permission)
